Monday, 18 April 2016

Tribal lands, AZ and NM. Part 3. Modern living on and off the res...culture clash or progress?


This is Part 3 of my musings about this huge and important topic.

Clearly, there are no simple answers to the question posed in the title of this post. As there is obviously not a single answer which will suit every indigenous person.

What Dave and I saw strongly suggests that life on the tribal lands is not easy.  We saw some desperate living conditions and we saw some prosperity.  We saw dozens of indigenous people at roadside stands trying to sell some of their crafts, most with no buyers. 
 Some of the housing on the Navajo lands


We also saw some businesses which seemed to be doing very well.  For example, the Navajo-owned touring company which took us on our excellent Lower Antelope Canyon tour in Page, AZ (see: http://lowerantelope.com/ and my post entitles Lower Antelope Canyon) seems to be doing very well indeed as evidenced by the construction and expansion of their facilities.

The struggle to preserve ancient beliefs and cultural traditions in the midst of today's life is difficult.  Yet, while at the Cameron Trading Post, I met a young Hopi woman who guided me through the beautiful old home furnished with traditional pieces.  She is proud to be Hopi, speaks the language and told me with a smile that she is learning more about the Zuni, another tribe, so that she can teach her Zuni boyfriend about his own culture. As an explanation of why this young man is unfamiliar with his people's ways, she replied that he grew up in the city of Albuquerque.

On the other hand, a conversation with a young server at a Navajo restaurant suggested that working conditions are fairer to the staff because it is not owned by the tribe...
Expansion at the Cameron Trading Post, white-owned and Native-staffed...
 
The beautiful indigenous furnishings of the museum house at the Cameron Trading Post
Cheaper souvenirs are also available at the Trading Post 
It seems unlikely that the Hopi will continue to live in the thousand year-old pueblos away from modern-life's amenities for much longer...Young men like my young Hopi guide's city-grown  boyfriend are many.   And yet, one senses identity, pride and a wish to preserve the old ways among many.  As with all social issues, the future is in the hands of those same young people.  


Now for a lighter and more mundane postcript on Navajo cuisine.  If you have never tried Navajo fry bread, you are missing an amazing, calorie-laden treat!   "Fry bread is a flat dough deep fried in oil, shortening or lard. The dough is generally leavened by soured milk, baking powder or yeast . Fry bread can be eaten alone or with various toppings such as honey, jam or hot beef. Fry bread can also be made into tacos or replace the more mundane hamburger bun."  Dave and I tried both the Navajo taco and burger.  Oh yeah!

  

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