Saturday, 27 February 2016

Elephant Butte State Park, NM and another RV repair interlude


February 25-27, 2016

From White Sands Monument, we drove a few hours to Elephant Butte Park, which is on the shores of Elephant Butte Lake.  This reservoir was part of the Rio Grande Project, a project to provide power and irrigation to south-central New Mexico and west Texas. It was filled starting between 1915 and 1916 after damming the Rio Grande in 1905 to provide flood control,  five miles North of the town of Truth or Consequences...The name "Elephant Butte" refers to a volcanic core which is now an island in the lake. The butte was said to have the shape of an elephant lying on its side.  Now for the name of the nearby town: the town's name was changed from "Hot Springs" to "Truth or Consequences" on March 31, 1950, after Ralph Edwards, the host of the popular game show "Truth or Consequences," called for any town in America to do so - in celebration of the show's ten year anniversary. On the following day, April 1st, 1950, Edwards and his game show entourage went on the air from the newly named Truth or Consequences, NM. Every year since, the town, which locals call “T or C,” has hosted a Truth or Consequences Fiesta.

 

Sailing in the desert?
Why not?


A lone, lost SEAgull
 


A more likely local bird: scaled quail 




People enjoying a day trip on the shore



After discovering a leak from our water heater, we contacted a mobile RV repair service.  The very next morning, we had a replacement water heater installed and, in less than two hours, we were back in the hot water business.  Thank you Rick O'Neill! An interesting side note is that Kim, Rick's wife, runs the only bus (in the country?) that is completely solar-powered.  Way to go Kim!  We regret not having gone for a ride...

All is peaceful as the sun sets over the lake...







White Sands National Monument, NM


February 25, 2016

A 30-mile day trip from our spectacular Aguirre Spring campground brought us to White Sands National Monument.  I cannot put it better than the following description on their website:
"Rising from the heart of the Tularosa Basin is one of the world's great natural wonders - the glistening white sands of New Mexico. Great wave-like dunes of gypsum sand have engulfed 275 square miles of desert, creating the world's largest gypsum dunefield. White Sands National Monument preserves a major portion of this unique dunefield, along with the plants and animals that live here."
The dunes are created when rain and melting snow dissolve gypsum from the surrounding mountains and carry it into a nearby seasonal lake (Lucero). The desert heat evaporates the water, causing gypsum crystals to form.  The dry winds expose the crystals, eroding them into sand-size particles which are blown into the dune field. 






The illusion of a snow-covered road...



As I walked along the desert trail, I reflected on the quote we saw earlier at the Visitors Centre 


Aguirre Spring Campground, New Mexico


February 23-24, 2016

We said goodbye to Texas after just over a month in that vast state.

Our first campsite in New Mexico qualifies as THE most spectacular of our trip thus far. Described as the only high country campground, Aguirre Spring is on federal recreational land administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), at an altitude of 5738'.  The road to the site is a six-mile windy climb, with sharp narrow switchbacks towards the top.  Larger RV vehicles and trailers are definitely discouraged and we would certainly echo those warnings.  At 26', we were fine! The high wall, needle-like spires of the Organ Mountains curve dramatically around a semicircle of Chihuahuan Desert habitat. The highest mountains were lightly dusted with snow. The campground, nestled at the base of spectacular cliffs, overlooks the Tularosa Basin and an artillery testing area.

Although there are no hookups or services other than pit toilets at BLM campgrounds, one certainly cannot argue with the price: $7.00/night!  And we had the place almost to ourselves, with only two other campers in the 20 available sites.


Our first sight of snow this year


 

Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site, TX


February 21-22, 2016

According to their website: "For thousands of years, people have trekked to these rock hills in far west Texas. In earlier times, they came for the rainwater pooled in natural rock basins, or huecos (my note: not to be confused with Waco, TX)."



Huecos

 "Visitors today marvel at the imagery left by those ancient people". The imagery referred to is the numerous pictographs and petroglyphs left by people over the last thousand years on the walls of caves in this area.  Whereas the cave paintings we saw at Seminole Canyon and at the White Shaman sites (see earlier posts) were dated between 2000 and 4000 years ago, many of the paintings and writings at Hueco Tanks are more contemporary.





"Around A.D. 1150,  the Jornada Mogollon people began farming squash, beans and corn at the base of the rock hills, where they had access to water for their crops. They built a small cluster of pithouse structures, studied by archaeologists in the early 1970s. Remains of their agricultural life include pottery shards, stone tools and water control features.
These people also left images in the park. Their imagery of animals, birds and large-eyed figures may represent rain or storm deities. The most renowned images are “masks” or face designs. Hueco Tanks has the largest grouping of such masks in North America, with more than 200 identified."






 Getting to and from the sites can sometimes be a bit of a challenge....


Dave, the spelunker

 "After the arrival of the Spanish, native people continued to visit Hueco Tanks, looking for water and shelter. The Kiowa, Mescalero Apache, Comanche, Tigua and the people of Isleta del Norte Pueblo consider the site to be a meaningful part of their heritage.
Their rock images are of handprints, dancing figures, horses, weapons and humans in European clothing. These images may show stories of celebration, tradition, conflict and change."






Over the decades, as different groups of people visited the site, there were additions of graffiti and much defacing of the original paintings and drawings.  These, in addition to the natural fading of colours due to light, mean that what we see today is only a fraction of the original works. 

Painting made of the cave drawings in the 1930s

Faded remnants of one of the figures today

 "The Butterfield Overland Mail began operations in 1858. For the first time, people separated by nearly 2,000 miles of wilderness could communicate. Because of its water sources, Hueco Tanks served as a relay station for a year, until a safer southern route was established."
Some of the graffiti in the caves is believed to have been written by travellers. 

1884 graffiti overlaying some earlier paintings
The Hueco Tanks Park is also a world renowned site for the sport of "bouldering" (or free climbing).  As the popularity of the sport increases, the number of people wanting access to the park is also increasing.  In addition, more tourists are wanting to view the paintings. These demands can sometimes come into conflict with efforts at preservation and with the cultural significance of the site for some Native groups.  Park officials are attempting to work with all groups.  The result is that, unlike other state parks, access to Hueco Tanks is limited.  First, only 70 people are allowed into the day-use area on a daily basis.  Access to two out of three of the mountains is with a guide only.  Camping reservations must be made in advance and are limited to a maximum of three days.  And, finally, everyone allowed onto the site is required to view a video about respecting the area and conservation.

One can only hope that these measures will prevent further vandalism and help preseve what is truly a treasure.  



Some signs of hope, love
  

peace and tranquility?


 and, finally, what appears to be a rockhound! 





an alligator...





a dam




and looking down on our RV from the top!


El Paso TX, Border Patrols and the Wyler Aerial Tram State Park


February 19-20

At the very Western end of Texas lies the large city (pop approximately 675 000) of El Paso.  Directly across El Paso from the Rio Grande is the enormous Mexican city, Ciudad Juarez (pop 1,500,000 plus).  On the highways nearing the city, there are several Border Patrol checkpoints, where cameras of various sorts are pointed at the vehicles, K-9 units are on view and BP guards inspect your documents.  No joking about Mexican passengers here!  Dave and I are both interested in border relations and so, chose to tour the Border Patrol Museum which describes the history of the Department and has various displays of methods used to deter illegal entry into the US.




Homemade motorcycles used by Mexican people to cross over

These highly dangerous and risky vehicles speak to the desperation of the people trying to come into the US with dreams of improving their lives...

To complement our visit to the Border Patrol museum and our own brief stops at checkpoints, we bought the film: "Maria del Norte" for a sometimes humorous Mexican perspective on the whole issue. See:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAQPzi9En-g




One of our main missions in going to a city is to do laundry!  As this tends to accumulate while we visit State and National parks, we then need to break down and "camp" at an RV park.  Mission RV Park was better than most in the quality and cleanliness of its facilities.  However, without our GPS we surely would have never found it among the maze of highways!

Dave was a bit worried that the name of the park would reflect a missionary goal.  Not so, the "mission" is a historical reference to the Spanish...

The park dog whom I named Chico because he is small, seemed well fed and cared for but very skittish, accepting food only if thrown from a distance....


The main attraction for us in our very selective and brief tour of El Paso was to take a ride aboard the "Wyler Aerial Tramway".  This tram is part of the State Park in the Franklin Mountains which are in the middle of the city.  In order to reach the tram, one has to climb a narrow road to an altitude of about 4700'.  More switchbacks! With our exquisite planning (or good luck) we were there on one of three days a week the tram is in service.


After arriving early enough to get a parking spot big enough for the rig, we line up to purchase a ticket for $8.00, heed the dire warnings and enjoy the 1000' ride up to the 5632' Ranger Peak. The two gondolas allow a maximum of six passengers and the ride up takes about 5 minutes...





 From there, the panoramic view is said to span 7000 square miles, and, of course, you can see Mexico, New Mexico and Texas.  We enjoyed both the ride and the view!


Ciudad Juarez




 And we descend once again to that tiny parking lot below! (can you spot it down there?)